Protector test at Mikefest

  • Thread starter Chris Muetterties
  • Start date
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Chris Muetterties

Guest
How about a Protector test that starts at Wed's class with application, Stains applied 48 hours later and then cleaning on Sat at the hall ?
 
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Ron Lippold

Guest
I will bring 24 flow for damion at the hall it will do better than the host machine and ken on the rug doctor
 

Wandslinger

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Tom Meyer
Hardball's waterbase and solvent
Cobb's juice
Bridgepoint Maxim
CTI Stain Guardian
Magic Wand/Magic Spell

Any Others?
 
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Demien

Guest
I don't think 48 hours is a long enough cure time for the protectors. I believe hard ball needs 72 hours. Cure times can be accelerated with heat.
Demien
 

Numero Uno

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Caesar
Fabric Cote,Butler Maximum,etc,etc...

Test as many and give the longest cure time possible...

Unless you want multiple tests on different cure times...Possibility...

Even have some the first Bane Clene protector availible...

Still good after 17 years? Kept in protected areas...
 

Jimbo

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What happened to the results from last years testing? Is a video available?
 

J Scott W

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Jeffrey Scott Warrington
Most protectors should cure in a few hours. I would hate to be telling clients to stay of the carpet or be sure and not spill or track for several day until the protector is cured.

I will volunteer to bring the new Maxim Advanced and some Teflon. I think I can also bring some greige goods carpet that have never had protector applied.

In our lab, we test against, dry soil, Kool-Aid, water, cooking oil. I would be glad to bring material and supplies to do the testing.

Scott Warrington
 
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Rex Tyus

Guest
I will volunteer to bring the new Maxim Advanced and some Teflon. I think I can also bring some greige goods carpet that have never had protector applied.

It is always easy to tell the ones that know the results before they are common knowledge.

If I were a betting man, I would put my money on Maxim Advanced.
I may actually have to fly out there to judge these results for myself. 8)
 
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TimP

Guest
You know Rex from personal experience the maxim works pretty darn good. I don't like teflon, you have to dilute it so much and spray it heavy. I prefer to spray less and cover more. But I've had milk from my son spill on a maxim protected floor and it sat on top of the fibers and wiped right up. I can also tell you a non protected floor can be hard as hell to clean...guess it's time for power burst when that's the case.....
 
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alazo1

Guest
I can bring some small pieces (1 x 4") of new unprotected carpet but it seems Scott has all that stuff.

Albert
 

Larry Cobb

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Larry Cobb
You're wasting your time..

Our solvent-based Ultraseal will impress the judges.

No contest.

Larry Cobb
 
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Shawn Forsythe

Guest
This will be interesting. The broad tests that I have seen on Maxim are pretty impressive. I'd like to see if anything can beat it, in "the real world".

Please make sure that there are a variety of tests that give all manners of performance of the products. If the tests are too narrow, you'll have "lab results", rather than real world.

Test a variety of molecular weight solvents/oils.

Test a variety of dry soils, including that nasty rug silt from last year.

Both natural and artificial food dyes, with pH and temperature fluctuations.

I almost guarantee an interesting array of results, with some clear losers, and some not so clear winners.

Add product safety and environmental equations to the mix too.

Quite a project.
 

Numero Uno

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Caesar
Attaboy, Shawn...

Lets start at protector's and work our way slowly through all categories over the next few years...
 
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timnelson

Guest
I think a protector test is a great idea. The biggest issue, though, is not curing time. It's even and consistent application from one sample to the next. If I could make a suggestion, you will need a scale of some kind to weigh samples before and after application. There are other ways to do it, but weight is probably the easiest.
 
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harryhides

Guest
The Testing committee is planning to perform as many tests as time will allow this year. We will keep you posted.

And, as was suggested above there are so many different things that can be tested that we will never run out of different things to test over the years.

Our greatest limitation is in having enough usable carpet either new which we can evenly soil or evenly soiled carpet ( like out of a hallway).

We learned a tremendous amount about how to test last year and because of the many errors made ( different operators and cleaning styles, too much soil, etc ) I decided not to release those test results on DVD.
Unlike the CRI we actually only want realistic tests that produce useful information for professional carpet cleaners.

The vacuum cleaner tests however were, IMO valid and those tests/results will be included in the first DVD we produce.

Keep the ideas coming.
 

Wandslinger

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Tom Meyer
I'll be honest, I conducted by own limited test using Hardball's stuff (both water and solvent), Magic Spell and Cobb's juice. Cobb's actually did win, but I still use Hardball's waterbased.
 
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Rex Tyus

Guest
The biggest issue, though, is not curing time. It's even and consistent application from one sample to the next. If I could make a suggestion, you will need a scale of some kind to weigh samples before and after application. There are other ways to do it, but weight is probably the easiest.

I think the easiest to be would to apply according to the directions for each product. Take whatever the coverage rate is factor the square footage to be treated load applicator with the exact amount of product and spray until gone. :shock:

Just a thought.
 

Jimmy L

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Jimmy L
I can see it now in all the trade mags.


Voted #1 carpet protector at MikeyFest


On sale now for $29.95 a gallon!
 
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steve g

Guest
scottw said:
I think I can also bring some greige goods carpet that have never had protector applied.

I


I think this is the only way to do it, because if the carpet is new or even used it will have a factory protector on it, and if its worn off there will still be protector at the base of the fibers, dont' believe me just try getting carpet dye to take all the way down to the base of the fibers, back in the day when I used to dye carpets I tried scrubbing, everything short of physically dumping a bucket of die on the carpet and it still would not take to the base of the fibers, on one I think we ended up with a water damage instead of dye job.

many people don't realize how hard it is to actually get protector off something, I once spilled some teflon on my trailer fender, it would not come off the painted metal, even with hot high pressure from a car wash aimed almost touching it, only thing that got rid of it was spray paint. if it sticks like that to painted metal imagine carpet
 
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Rex Tyus

Guest
many people don't realize how hard it is to actually get protector off something, I once spilled some teflon on my trailer fender, it would not come off the painted metal, even with hot high pressure from a car wash aimed almost touching it, only thing that got rid of it was spray paint. if it sticks like that to painted metal imagine carpet

Clear ammonia, Bridgepoint Power Break or Prochem Powerburst would have solved your problem. :wink:
 
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timnelson

Guest
Rex,
Depends on how big the samples are and what equipment you are using. If you are looking for real world, you will be using a MultiSprayer or similar, right? Now, what if the sample is only a few square feet. :shock:
 

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